Australia… in a blog.
It was difficult to convey the daily occurrences in a trip which was both monumentally busy and also quite uniform. In addition, being in a country that routinely charges upwards of $30 for internet access makes it a bit challenging to provide constant and well thought out updates.
Having made the decision to come to Australia for business purposes, I resigned to remind myself that was the reason for my visit, and not to feel disappointed with my lack of exploration of such a vast and unpopulated, wonderous country. Visiting Australia is like taking a sip from a fire-hose, there are simply too many places to visit in one trip. Or at least this is what I’m telling myself, as I spent a majority of the trip in the capital of the country, Canberra, a location 99.9% of Australians will tell you is “shit”.
Canberra really isn’t all that bad. It is however, a city built for diplomats, created after Sydney and Melbourne failed to decide which great city should be the capital of the newly created country. It is clean and surrounds a beautiful lake, and offers a host of paved trails and lovely parks. If you stay within the city center and visit such parks, you don’t have to experience the heroin problem which dwells in the outskirts of town… Nonetheless, I never had a bad time in Canberra, it was mostly just boring, as there is no nightlife, nor any notable sights or activities. I found myself much like a hamster on a wheel, taking endless jogs on the miles of paved trails or driving in endless circles around the senseless backwards double round-a-bouts.
Upon finally landing in Sydney, we were greeted by the blinding morning sun of the southern hemisphere and staggered around on our travel weary legs in search of our rental car. I barely remember the drive from Sydney to Canberra, which is roughly 275 km of grassland and wombat crossing signs. At one point I stopped for coffee, ever gracious for Fraser’s internationally functioning credit cards, as none of mine appeared to work so far from home. Perhaps as a testimement to our delirious condition was the complete newness of this same drive on our way back to Sydney at the end of our stay in Canberra.
Once safely in our apartment in the Kingston district of Canberra, we commenced a quick excursion of the neighborhood, and immediately realized both the suburban nature of the city and the high price of commoditites in Australia. Prices in Australia had, for the past several years, been quite inexpensive, due to favorable exchange rates. However, as the price of foreign money falls, the cost of staying and eating in Australia climbs higher and higher… thank goodness for peanut butter and jelly!
Driving in the opposite direction took much getting used to, especially in an uninsured “no-fault” (as I was often reminded) rental car. We made our way around the city, unscathed, in preparation for the upcoming week of events.
Monday was the first day of the 2009 UCI World Championships, and we ventured out to the venue to walk the course and get a feel for the facilities. The event venue was Stromlo Forest, a government funded nature preserve with a complete trail system for downhill and cross country bikes. This having been the first trip all summer that I’ve traveled without a bike, I was fairly disappointed to have not brought a cross country bike, as the trails were well built and wound about the little hill in a maze of trails. We saw our first kangaroos as we walked the up the downhill course, and took pictures of the various features.
The next week passed much the same every day. I managed to drag myself out on a run nearly every day, building up to almost an hour and a half by the end of the trip. Most days I would drive Fraser out to the venue, and come up to shoot my own pictures of practice, or help him with his equipment. Then we’d venture back to our apartment, exhausted, eat, watch whatever programming was gracing our one television channel and pass out. This trip was certainly beneficial for replentishing any sleep deprivation I might have been experiencing!
A few nights were spent at events, or out to dinner with friends. I can only handle a limited amount of bike speak, so it definitely got somewhat tiresome towards the end. Nonetheless, the experience of being at the biggest and most prestigious mountain bike race in the world was truly a unique and overwhelming experience.
Sunday, the downhill race day was upon us quicker than expected, and the crowds and excitement filled the venue early. The juniors raced first, followed by elite women and elite men. Because I was working for Fraser, I was able to obtain media accreditation and a UCI photographer’s vest… all access! I sat in front of the crowds, literally next to the most exciting points on the course. After an exciting morning of racing, I decided to venture down near the finish line to watch the top twenty men finish their race run. From my desirable vantage point, was able to see not only the last jump, but the jumbo tron screen which showed the entire race run, as well as the finish arch with overall times. From here I watched the biggest names in downhill racing finish their World Championship run. I was there when Steve Peat crossed the finish with a substantial lead and maintained his lead, securing a World Championship after 15 years of racing one of the most successful World Cup racing careers but never obtaining the title of the best in the world. Seeing such an iconic rider grasp such a long sought after title was truly a once in a lifetime opportunity.
After such a huge weekend of racing, and a week outside in the brisk and windy sun, Monday morning arrived with a relaxed air… and rain. The morning was dreary, but the drive to Sydney a welcome change in pace. We drove up the coast, through spectacular rainforest, windy roads, and past rain soaked beaches; sleepy beach towns reluctantly waking up from winter hibernation. Arrival in Sydney was much akin to Dorothy’s arrival in Oz (pun intended), with it’s glittering sky scrapers, sparkling ocean, early spring blooms, and the vibrant bustle of people.
Our hotel was in a truly spectacular location, in the heart of the Rocks district of Sydney – the old remnants of the original prison camps. From our location, we could look across the ferry station to the Opera House, and were practically under the Sydney Harbour bridge. I couldn’t have been more pleased, and after getting settled in the room, went for a run – right up to the Opera House and through the spectacular public botanical gardens surrounding the area. The sun, without the biting wind we’d experienced in Canberra, was welcomed, and virtually shines off every surface in the city.
The food in Sydney is eclectic, as Sydney itself is largely without a national dish, but was tasty. Following my habit of eating the most local animal found in a region, I ate kangaroo for dinner, something that will probably not be repeated. We visited Bondi Beach – the famous location of the Beach Volleyball event of the Olympics, and wandered around the city.
Wednesday morning, after dropping Fraser and our rental shoebox off at the airport; I relished in my first and only day alone in Australia. While I yearned for more time, I am suited for solo adventuring, and set about exploring as much as I could fit into one day. The city offers an “all you can ride” pass for the ferry, train and bus system. As the ferries departed a block from my hotel, I spent the day riding various ferries around the harbour, stepping off when the location looked interesting. I rode out to Manly Beach, located in the “North Head” of the Sydney area, outside the harbour and on the open ocean where I ran into some friends and walked the beach with them. On the ferry ride back, I chatted up a local law student, who gave me the rundown on the Australian legal system, as well as a geography lesson for the region – too bad I was leaving the next day!
My last morning was spent in slight sadness. There are some places that don’t seem to have been fulfilled, and Sydney, and perhaps more appropriately, Australia, is one of them. I went for a run, across the Harbour Bridge, along the water’s edge, up though a park, back across the bridge, through the gardens, one last inhalation of the city and the stunning opera house, and then back to the hotel to clean up and finish packing in preparation for departure.
I have been beyond fortunate this year. I have traveled to South America, ridden my bike across the high passes of Colorado, raced my bike in Europe, and partied in Whistler, British Columbia. The experience has provided more opportunities than I ever could have imagined, as well as teaching me so many new things and introducing me to new friends around the world. I appreciate the support of all of my friends and family members more than I can ever express…
